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Laser Noob: Getting begun With The K40 Laser | AD0-E301 exam Questions and real Questions

Why spend thousands on a laser cutter/engraver should you can spend as little as $350 shipped to your door? bound it’s not as exceptional as these fancy domestic machines, however the plucky K40 is the little laser that can. simply head on down to Al’s Laser Emporium and decide upon one up.  yes, it feels like a used motor vehicle dealership advert, however how far is it from the fact? study on to discover!

Laser slicing and engraving machines were round for many years. plenty like 3D printers, they had been at the start impossibly costly for somebody working at domestic. The closest you might get to a hobbyist laser changed into Epilog laser, which might nonetheless cost somewhere between $10,000 and $20,000 for a small laser equipment. a few groups made a go along with the Epilog and did quite well – peculiarly Adafruit used to offer laptop laser engraving features.

Over the closing decade or so things have modified. China got concerned, and there have been low-cost lasers in the marketplace. presently, there are a number of cost-effective laser models available in various vigor ranges. probably the most usual is the smallest – a forty-watt mannequin, dubbed the K40. There are numerous manufacturers and there have been many types over the years. they all seem concerning the equal though: A blue sheet steel box with the laser tube hooked up along the lower back. The slicing compartment is on the left and the electronics are on the right. prior versions came with Moshidraw utility and a parallel interface.

The K40 mechanics haven’t changed very lots, but the electronics had been up-to-date to USB with modern stepper drivers. Make no mistake, these are not “high-quality” machines. they're built down to a price. Interlock switches are non-existent. Overheat coverage for the tube is your issue. Low cooling water stream alarm? Nope, more desirable preserve an eye fixed on that yourself. The slicing bed appears like a mix of an afterthought and parts a person found in the spares bin. The exhaust duct is routed 3 inches into the chopping enviornment. In different words, these are the perfect machines for a hacker.

I’ve been watching the K40 and an identical machines on eBay for years. at first these machines had been shipped from China. It was a crapshoot if a large heavy fuel crammed glass tube would survive the shuttle halfway around the world. Now, lots of the machines are shipping from California and other ports inside the lessen forty eight states. I’m guessing the machines are shipped to a warehouse right here in the united states of america, validated, then the first rate units are sent on to shoppers.

With all this in mind, I eventually determined to soar in and get a K40 laser. My first problem became figuring out which laser to buy. eBay and Alibaba are riddled with auctions from sellers with distinctive models of the K40. every person says they’re more latest and improved than the leisure. Some boast distinct accent applications, and things like air assist – but additionally charge greater. there is ample tips to throw even essentially the most pro eBayer into evaluation paralysis mode.

in the end, I decided to go together with one of the most more affordable (however now not the cheapest) lasers with a digital entrance panel display. My mannequin additionally got here with a temperature readout for the cooling water, and wheels – for those that like to roll their benchtop lasers around.

I clicked the “purchase it now” button and started waiting. The computer in its sixty two lb crate would take about per week to ship from the west coast. That gave me loads of time to order some defense device.

Laser protection

while the K40 can be inexpensive, I didn’t need to skimp on protection equipment. there are many companies for laser protected goggles online. There are plenty of them purchasable from China, however I in reality didn’t are looking to chance my eyes to a corporation I had never heard of. I did some checking around and ended up ordering a pair manufactured by using Honeywell. Amazon had them obtainable on prime, in order that they received to me earlier than the K40 itself. Whichever pair you order, be certain they are rated for CO2 lasers. there are many forms of lasers out there, and goggles meant to offer protection to you from a UV clinical laser won’t assist lots at all when it comes to an IR laser like the one in the K40. IR protected glasses could be clear, or very nearly so. but don’t mistake them for lavatory ordinary protection glasses. These are exceptionally made substances that allows you to help maintain you secure from the invisible blindness beam your K40 puts out when your other protection measures fail.

Lasers burn issues, and it's regrettably standard for those issues to capture hearth inside the laser. I’m preserving a large ABC dry powder fireplace extinguisher close the printer. besides the fact that children, that’s only a stopgap. in case you’ve ever needed to use a powder extinguisher, you know how messy they are. To try to hold the K40 and the rest of my lab safe, I’m planning to invest in a gasoline extinguisher of some classification. either CO2 or Halotron, reckoning on which is safer to be used in a basement room.

while I in no way plan to depart the laser working unattended, I even have smoke detectors in my lab. at last, I introduced a carbon monoxide detector to be sure the K40 doesn’t fill the room with a silent killer.

Unboxing

Hackaday doesn’t do unboxing videos, but the influence I received while unpacking the K40 became that it is big – greater than one would think about from the photos. My machine measured 32″ large x 19.75″ deep x 10.25″ excessive. fortuitously I had workbench house correct near a window that made a perfect home.

Cooling

The K40 laser is water cooled. all the lasers include a coolant pump as probably the most accessories. The pump I received is a ask yourself of cost reduction. It’s an aquarium or pond pump, with a magnetically coupled impeller. i used to be panic when after use I saw water dripping out of the pump down the one hundred twenty V energy twine. It turns out the back cover of the pump isn’t even sealed. It doesn’t deserve to be. The motor stator and coils are potted in black epoxy. provided that that potting compound is in place, nothing can get to the motor. It does appear to work neatly for preserving the cooling water flowing. besides the fact that children, i can’t say I absolutely have confidence it with the lifetime of my laser tube. A mod can be sooner or later for this device.

For coolant, I’m the use of distilled water. My reservoir for these early exams is a simple shoebox-sized plastic container. It holds a gallon of water and continues the pump submerged. If the laser isn’t going for use for a couple of days, I dump the water and empty the tube through blowing into the inlet line.

Exhaust

chopping issues with a laser will produce smoke and fumes; that’s a given. The K40 comes with an exhaust fan which is fairly anemic, to claim the least. It’s literally a bathroom exhaust fan slapped on the returned of the laser. Smoke is pulled via a slot cut within the back of the case and despatched up the exhaust hose. I already have a huge Dayton fan set up in the window of my lab. whereas the unguarded blades are decidedly dangerous, it strikes a crazy quantity of air. This coupled with the inventory exhaust fan became capable of hold the odor of burning wood and plastic all the way down to most economical degrees. despite the fact, I’ll basically be upgrading the inventory exhaust sooner or later.

Aligning The Optics

step one in developing one of these lasers is arguably probably the most bad: aligning the mirrors. here's why I bought first rate laser goggles. working on the laser with the doorways off is whatever thing you often don’t need to do considering that you can’t handle where the beam goes.

keep the laser safeguard glasses on continually, shut the door, and ensure no one else walks into the room. My tube become thus far out of alignment that the beam exited the case in the course of the open door and made a small scorch mark on the wall in the back of my workbench. It should not have been respectable if someone else was standing there.

There are a lot of video tutorials out there for aligning the mirrors on a K40. I discovered this one to be peculiarly helpful. The concept is to be sure that the laser dot hits the middle of each and every of the three mirrors in the beam direction. Two of the mirrors circulation on an X-Y table, so it’s critical to make certain the beam hits the same spot no count the place they're located. I used publish-it notes instead of the painter’s tape most of the tutorials demand. It’s plenty easier to see the burn mark on the yellow put up-It than on the darkish blue tape.

You don’t need a laptop for these steps, simply hold the stepper motors off and circulation the desk by hand. When it comes time to fireplace the laser, you just need to faucet the test button on the entrance panel. the primary thing to align is the tube itself. My tube turned into to date out of alignment that the beam wasn’t even hitting the reflect. The tube is held in with two metal spring straps. Rubber rings keep the straps from breaking the glass tube. greater rubber acts as shims to align the tube vertically. I removed some of the shims from the left side of the tube and introduced it to the correct. It’s a fiddly manner in view that tightening too hard on the screws will spoil the only most costly a part of the K40 – the laser tube.

I found that even after an alignment, my K40 nevertheless wasn’t performing correctly. I cleaned the mirrors and the laser tube with alcohol, however it became no assist. finally, I disassembled the focusing head. That’s where I discovered my difficulty. there have been bits of steel inside the pinnacle from when it became machined. These steel items have been within the beam course, disrupting it. I took the forty five-degree replicate and the focusing lens out, then cautiously cleaned the tube. as soon as every thing turned into re-assembled, my K40 become competent for action.

application

The laser comes with an certainly burned CD and a USB stick. My desktop doesn’t have a CD pressure, so I popped in the USB stick and located… nothing. It’s not in fact a force, however a dongle to unencumber the laser driver application. I needed to go and locate my USB cd force earlier than the use of the K40. lots of the filenames on the disc are in chinese language. Some digging finally led me to a file for Corel Laser. It’s a duplicate of Corel Draw with a plugin to force the K40. The copy of Corel Draw is nearly actually an illegal cracked reproduction. I got entry to a legit base replica from a pal who switched over to Adobe.

In standard phrases, CorelLaser offers you a toolbar and can cut or engrave any picture loaded into Corel Draw. slicing and engraving are very distinctive tactics although. reducing is a vector operation. The laser will hint the route of every line in the graphic. Engraving is a raster affair. The laser will draw the photo line via line, left to appropriate and proper to bottom. you could also perform each approaches on the identical design by creating a reduce layer and an engraving layer within the software.

I ran into quandary with the application fairly without delay. each time i tried to reduce, the laser head moved slowly. altering the flow settings didn’t help. Some digging finally pointed me to the settings web page for CorelLaser. right here I discovered the “mainboard” environment was wrong. The value has to match the mannequin number silk screened on the laser mainboard. Of direction, the mainboard is established in such a way so you might’t study the model number, but a quick cell photo mounted that issue. My mannequin is 6C6879-LASER-M2. The board firmware is dated 2018-01-08, so the board need to have been developed someday after that.

I anticipated CorelLaser to be a scorching mess. actually, it isn’t half dangerous. It in fact has some maddening quirks, however normal it does what it would – pressure the steppers and swap the laser. The accurate quirk I’ve found is line width. Corel defaults to “hairline” as line width. this is greater than the laser kerf, so CorelLaser interprets it as two parallel paths. Tracing two close paths on with the K40 will make a wide burning mess of anything you’re attempting to cut. The solution is to opt for every little thing on your doc <Ctrl-A> then hit F12, and alter the road width to .001 mm. CorelLaser will then operate as you predict it to.

Which materials to make use of (and which to evade)

What to reduce? as with all laser cutter, notion has to be given to the substances being cut. In established, wood is safe to cut, as is paper, cloth, melamine, pressboard, matte board, cork, some rubbers, herbal leather-based, and Corian. Engraving may also be performed on substances reminiscent of glass, stone, anodized aluminum, metal (with a laser engraving coating) and different substances.

Some plastics may still not ever be reduce in a laser cutter. anything else with chlorine – peculiarly PVC and vinyl. Burning PVC effects in chlorine gasoline, with the intention to kill the consumer, and hydrochloric acid, that will rust your K40 out so bad that your next of family won’t be capable of have fun with it. an easy verify for chlorine is the copper wire burnination look at various, which can be viewed during this 10-yr-historic video from [Adam] and [Zach] at NYC Resistor. ABS plastic is yet another one to steer clear of. It tends to soften and is messy to reduce. It also releases hint quantities of cyanide gas. if you’re ever in doubt about a fabric, lookup on the pages of hackerspaces who've lasers. in the event that they won’t cut it on their laser, you likely shouldn’t both.

slicing and Engraving

reducing and engraving are what we’re all right here for, appropriate? The enjoyable a part of getting to know the laser is identifying a way to install the application for diverse substances. With a laser, you have got three variables to play with. Laser vigour, velocity, and the variety of passes. Laser vigor is controlled by way of the front panel of the K40. It’s either a knob and an inaccurate milliampere meter or a digital handle expressed in energy percentage. slicing with more than one move is messier than just reducing the material as soon as, so store that for for those who really want to do it.

There are a couple of guides out there – I’ve found this web page to be an outstanding beginning factor for figuring out which speeds and power tiers to run at for a given fabric. I often will use the velocity from that website, then beginning at a lots reduce laser vigour. trying out on scrap pieces, I’ll hold raising the vigor unless I have a clear reduce. If the power is beneath 50%, I’ll often persist with it, and never regulate the velocity.

you'll want to really preserve notes of what you employ. On my laser, I found a deep engrave on ⅛” acrylic at 50% and 320 mm/s. chopping ⅛” birch plywood labored most advantageous at 25% vigor and 5 mm/s. take into account that high-quality control on the K40 is non-existent, and beam focal point will count, so your gadget may be distinctive from mine. extra, substances reminiscent of plywood and acrylic can change from batch to batch depending on moisture content material and different variables. always purchase some further cloth to use as scrap for dialing on your settings.

performance

So how good is the K40 in a “bone inventory” circumstance? pretty damn respectable definitely. i used to be able to reduce ⅛” birch plywood and ⅛” acrylic with one pass at under 50% vigor. The elements would actually fall out as each and every cut finished. here's a laser, so of direction, there is some charring of the wood on the sides, but nothing slightly of sandpaper can’t fix. As a torture check, I took the Hackaday emblem .svg file loaded it up into CorelLaser, set the road width to .001 mm, and hit go. The K40 dutifully cut out the jolly wrencher, giving me a little puzzle of pieces to try to fit again collectively. Engraving efficiency turned into first rate too – i used to be capable of cut fundamental black and white photos (and textual content) into timber and acrylic. i can see how this could be superb for making control panels with labeled lights and switches.

abstract

The K40 is a cheap laser engraver/cutter. youngsters, it is awfully able, even when used unmodified. That said, the cutter is a pretty good platform for modification. that you may wager I’ll be spending a while adding issues like air assist and a better mattress to my K40 as well as slicing down that exhaust duct.


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